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Just off the Piazza Garibaldi is one of Parma's finest churches, called La Steccata.

The grand Renaissance building comtains some imposing tombs, and important frescoes by another great local artist, Francesco Mazzola, known as Il Parmigianino, one of the town's leading artists.

But the handful of visitors who arrive here will find an important art gallery, museums, frescoed churches, good shopping, charming historic lanes and of course the rich local cuisine.

Parma is a very good weekend break destination, with plenty to occupy tourists for two or three days, and some interesting excursions for a longer stay.

This is because it is a significant feature of the town and noticeable every way you turn, from smart liveried municipal rubbish bins to pricey designer clothes shops.

The town's not flash, but it is comfortable, and there can't be many city centres as civilised as Parma on a Sunday, when well-dressed locals stroll or cycle around the medieval lanes, chatting with acquaintances and admiring each other's babies or dogs.

Crossed by a major traffic artery, this was once the forum of the Roman town and is still a busy spot with outdoor cafes.

Strada Farini, leading south from the piazza, is a lively street of bars and restaurants.

It is worth studying the latter; as is usual in Italy, many museums and churches are closed for several hours in the middle of the day, and also on Mondays, so you may want to plan your sightseeing accordingly.

It even has an airport utilised, at the time of writing, by Ryanair, with flights from London.

Visitors could see the best of Parma in a day - the main attractions are close together - but the town really deserves a more leisurely stay.

The large collection is well-presented and includes some important art as well as many lesser works.

Paintings by both Correggio and Parmigianino, naturally, are also among the gallery's most prized exhibits, and are displayed in a small dedicted series of rooms.




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